Na úpatí hor Sierra de Guadarrama se ve výšce 1032 m n. m. rozkládá monumentální palác Filipa II., který měl symbolizovat spojení tří pilířů – koruny, církve a armády.
Španělská královská rodina vlastní šest sídel, která využívá k státním reprezentačním účelům nebo poskytuje na prohlídku návštěvníkům. V Madridu to je palác z 18. století shlížející na řeku Manzanates. U řeky Tagus je postaven palác v Aranjuez, který královská rodina užívala jako své letní sídlo už od 16. století. Lovecký zámeček El Pardo z doby habsburské vlády získal své jméno podle Monte de el Pardo, jednoho z největších madridských přírodních parků, na jehož okraji leží. Na svazích Sierra del Guadarrama se nachází palác Grandja de San Ildefonso, který vznikl na přání Filipa V., aby měl útočiště před zájmem veřejnosti, zatímco jeho žena Isabella Farnese si nechala roku 1752 postavit uprostřed cesmínového háje zámek Riofrío v italském stylu.
Klášter i palác v jednom
Nejhonosnější ze všech královských paláců je však Klášter a královské sídlo svatého Vavřince v El Escorial.
Práce na jednom z nejvýznamnějších královských paláců v Evropě začaly roku 1563 pod vedením Juana Bautista Alfonse de Toledo, který nabyl již zkušenosti u Michelangela na vatikánské bazilice svatého Petra. Na úpatí hory Abantos navrhl monumentální stavbu o délce 207 a šířce 160 metrů, obklopenou terasami širokými 30 a na západní straně až 60 metrů. Úplně nejdříve musel však strhnout několik vesnic, které tomuto odvážnému projektu stály v cestě. Na jejich místě začal vznikat komplex o pravoúhlém půdorysu, který byl dle legendy inspirován roštem, na němž byl upálen sv. Vavřinec (španělsky Lorenzo), jemuž je objekt zasvěcen, neboť právě v den jeho svátku roku 1557 porazila španělská armáda Francouze v bitvě u St. Quentinu.
Na průběh stavby dohlížel sám Filip II., který se již od 14 let aktivně zajímal o architekturu. Sám schválil rozmístění, podobu i vybavení budov – většina komplexu měla sloužit jako sakrální objekt, ale čtvrtina plochy byla určena pro královský palác, kam za úmorných veder utíkal z Madridu celý dvůr. Vše tu pak mělo být doplněno nemocnicí, zotavovnou a velkou lékárnou.
Již rok po zahájení stavby však došlo k prvním změnám. Zbožný Filip II. navýšil počet mnichů v plánovaném klášteře z původních padesáti na sto, takže bylo nutné připojit ještě jedno patro. Oproti původním plánům se také snížil počet věží z deseti na čtyři. Když roku 1567 Juan Bautista Alfonsis de Toledo zemřel, štafetu po něm převzal jeho pomocník Juan de Herrera. Ten sice vycházel z dochovaných skic i dřevěného modelu, ale přidal své osobité prvky. Tzv. herreiano styl, pojmenovaný po něm, se vyznačuje důrazem na linie namísto ozdobných prvků, které ruší pozornost. Pod jeho vedením byl roku 1582 dokončen kostel, o dva roky později palác, klášter a kolej a na počátku 90. let 16. století i knihovna. Na rozloze 33 327 m² tak vznikl komplex ze šedé žuly ve strohém stylu pozdní renesance, zahrnující 16 nádvoří, 13 malých kaplí, 15 křížových chodeb, 86 schodišť, 1200 dveří, 2673 oken a 88 fontán. Návštěvníci tu dnes mohou projít Bourbonský palác, pokoje Filipa II., baziliku, panteon, královské nádvoří, nádvoří evangelistů, kapitulní síň a knihovnu.
Bazilika
Centrální část celého komplexu představuje bazilika. První mše tu byla sloužena 10. srpna, tedy v den svátku svatého Vavřince, roku 1586, ale vysvěcená byla až o devět let později. Kostel, určený jen pro členy dvora, byl původně vymalovaný jen bíle a jedinou jeho ozdobou byla freska nad oltářem, kterou roku 1585 vytvořil Luca Cambiaso. Další malby na stěnách vznikaly až na konci 17. století a jejich autorem byl Luca Giordano. V obrovské bazilice zaujme především oltář na 28 metrů vysoké zdi z červené žuly a jaspisu, obklopený zlacenými sochami od Leona Leniho. Po stranách před ním lze vidět dvě sousoší modlících se osob – jedna zobrazuje rodinu Filipa II. a druhá, naproti němu, Karla I. s jeho blízkými.
Dle původního plánu měli všechny velké oltářní obrazy vytvořit Michelangelo nebo Tizian. Oba dva pánové však dosáhli již věku kolem osmdesáti let, a tak král nakonec zvolil méně známé umělce. Nahrazen byl také obraz El Greca Smrt svatého Vavřince, který se panovníkovi zdál být málo duchovní.
Královský palác
S bazilikou těsně sousedí původní královský palác, v němž přebýval Filip II. Zachovala se tu galerie, běžná pro paláce 16. a 17. století, v níž se tento panovník procházel s dětmi a kochal se výhledem z okem. V jednom z několika skromně zdobených pokojů zaujme návštěvníky okno, kterým mohl král ve dnech, kdy jej postihl záchvat dny, sledovat ze své postele mši probíhající v bazilice.
Jedním z důvodu, proč Filip II. začal stavět tento obrovský komplex, bylo i založení mauzolea pro španělské krále. Filip tehdy truchlil nad smrtí svého otce a navíc věděl, že pompézní královský hřbitov utvrdí habsburskou monarchii ve Španělsku. Není proto divu, že královský panteon téměř sousedí s jeho komnatami. Dlouhá ponurá chodba vede do kruhové místnosti zdobené černým a hnědým mramorem a zlatem. Tady jsou pod kupolí uloženy v šesti sloupcích ve stěnách vždy čtyři rakve a dvě jsou umístěny nad vstupem. Pohřbeni zde jsou skoro všichni španělští králové počínaje Karlem I. Královský panteon je spojený s rozsáhlým panteonem princů a princezen, v němž našly místo posledního odpočinku členové královských rodin, kteří se nedožili dospělosti, či manželky králů.
V 18. století se Karel III. rozhodl pro přestavbu starého královského paláce a nové prostory nechal ozdobit tapisériemi vyrobenými v Madridu. Ty zobrazují populární lovecké motivy, stejně tak jako výjevy z řecké mytologie, ale mnohé z nich byly zhotoveny na základě obrazů Francisca Goyi. Pokoje jsou vybaveny nábytkem z druhé poloviny 18. století a obdivovat tu lze i detaily jemně odbíjejících zlatých stolních hodin či přenosné krby.
Na protější straně komplexu se nachází velká Kapitulní síň zdobená díly velkých mistrů. Prohlédnout si tu můžete obrazy Anthona van Dycka, Tiziana, Hieronyma Bosche, ale i El Greca, jenž chtěl vyzdobit celý komplex, ale Filip II. jej jako dvorního malíře odmítl.
Knihovna
Klášter a královské sídlo svatého Vavřince z El Escorial byl naplánován především jako místo duchovní a vzdělávací. Proto tu také vznikla knihovna, která uchovává přes 40 000 textů ze soukromé sbírky Filipa II., medaile, mapy i vědecké přístroje nevyčíslitelné hodnoty. Budovu i interiér místnosti o délce 44 metrů, šířce 9 metrů a výšce 10 metrů navrhl Juan de Herrera. Přehlídnout tu nelze stropní malbu Pellegrina Tibaldiho z let 1588 až 1592, zachycující sedm svobodných umění: gramatiku, rétoriku, dialektiku, logiku, aritmetiku, astronomii a hudbu.
Nejvíce pozornosti však přitahuje armilární sféra z roku 1582, kterou dostal španělský král od Ferdinanda de Medici jako diplomatický dar. Složitý mechanismus ukazuje sluneční systém dle Ptolemaia s centrální Zemí, kolem níž rotují po svých drahách planety a hvězdy.
Článek byl publikován 4. 3. 2016 v páteční příloze Víkend deníku Právo
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